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Jullietta Stoencheva, Sofia June 1, 2024

 

In Bulgaria, June 1st is traditionally known as Children’s Day – a day filled with family activities. This year, it falls on a Saturday. The early summer sun is blazing as I head downtown, knowing the city center would be crowded – and not just because of the Children’s Day festivities. Bulgaria is just 9 days away from looming 2-in-1 elections amidst a prolonged political crisis. It is the sixth time in two years that Bulgarians go to the ballots, but with both a national government and EU Parliament representatives to be elected, this time there’s more on the line. The public sentiment is a mixture of voter fatigue, disenchantment, and worry for the country’s future.

Sword’s party-branded van

Passing through busy boulevards covered in election billboards and posters, I spot two politically branded vans. The first one to catch my attention prominently displays the logo and ballot number of the largest far-right player in the country, Revival, along with their leader’s image. Shortly after, a van branded with the newly formed “Morality, Unity, Honour” (in Bulgarian abbreviated МЕЧ, which translates to “Sword”) drives by, blasting the party’s program through a loudspeaker.

My day begins with an attempt to track down a Bulgarian Socialist Party (BSP) campaign event announced online, only to find no trace of them at the designated location. Instead, I stumble upon representatives of the center-right coalition “We Continue the Change – Democratic Bulgaria” (PP-DB) handing out reusable bags filled with campaign materials. These bags become a common sight as I wander through the city.

Next, I visit one of Sofia’s largest parks, where Children’s Day activities are in full swing. However, even this family-friendly space is not spared from political campaigning. Political parties have decorated their booths with party-branded balloons in large quantities, which they hand out to the children. Of course, the real purpose is to attract the parents. The blasting heat offers another opportunity for creatively doing so – PP-DB serve refreshing cold lemonade, while conservative-populist GERB hand out party caps to anyone in need of protecting their face from the sun. A humorous moment unfolds when a GERB representative stretches a cap to a young family walking just ahead of me. The father accepts it, and as they pass, I hear his wife scold him: “Why did you take this? You hate this party.” His response is pragmatic: “I’m not going to wear it, of course, but my grandma may need one to wear in the village.” BSP’s balloons, unlike most others, are unbranded, but sporting the party’s signature red colour. Even smaller parties have seized the opportunity to engage the public, walking around the park and handing out flyers.

GERB’s election booth – campaign materials in the foreground, a stage with dancing minions in the background

In the city center, campaigning is even more elaborate. Being Children’s Day, parties have tailored their outreach to families. GERB’s booth resembles a mini-festival with music, dancing minions, table tennis, and a lounge area with party-branded refreshments for parents and children, such as candy and water bottles. Meanwhile, PP-DB has rebranded the space in front of the National Theatre as “Square 14” (their ballot number), complete with a basketball court, sun beds, a book exchange shelf, and a board game area. As I walk by, one of their candidates, the Bulgarian Women’s Chess Champion, is hosting a chess tournament. The atmosphere is strikingly different from what I’m used to seeing in Sweden – party representatives eagerly step outside their booths to distribute materials, chat with passersby, and invite them into their festivities.

Yet, amidst this energy, cynicism lingers. I overhear two women on a bench discussing their voting intentions. “I’m either not going to vote or will vote blank,” one says. “Whoever comes into power steals from our country or does something else criminal. I don’t want to be complicit in their crimes.” Their disillusionment stands in stark contrast to the bustling campagning around.

Edelweiss’ book fair stand

The city center is not just a hub for political activity today – it’s also hosting a book fair. Among the vendors is “Edelweiss,” a publishing house linked to the neo-Nazi Bulgarian National Union. Sharing a booth with a seller of children’s books, their offerings include a Bulgarian translation of Mein Kampf, works by Holocaust denier David Irving, and memoirs of figures associated with fascism. The seller is a young man wearing a t-shirt with a crossed-out hammer and sickle alongside the text “Decommunization” – a motif I recognize from stickers I’ve seen scattered around the city. This sight is a poignant reminder of the presence of extremism alongside Bulgaria’s democratic processes.

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